It has been a refreshing and exiting week in Amsterdam, seeing this charmed city for the first time, Jen’s home for twelve years, and having a sort of pre-honeymoon after our May engagement. With my new tenure-track position at City College, the world literature course that I taught for the first time, and my dissertation in full swing, it has been an incredible semester and I kept saying that I was overwhelmed with goodness. Here are the photos of the trip. http://classic.kodakgallery.com/mayerssteve/main/amsterdam?
I’ve been reading Han Van Der Host’s 1996 history The Low Sky: Understanding the Dutch, which Jen loaned me. From the Calvinist influence to Erasmus (I’ve also been reading his In Praise of Folly) to Wilhelm of Orange to the Union of Utrecht, it is interesting to learn about the changes in church and government in the 16th and 17th centuries and its influences on the national character, its tolerance and love of consensus, its sober skepticism of hauteur, its dedication to fighting repression and tyranny, its ontological frugality, its history of trade and internationalism, and its connection to water. Speaking of the sky, he says; “Too often, grey clouds hang above the land, filtering the sunlight so that the colours below become pallid and dull. My own plans all too often lost their way in a maze of endless consultations and meetings. When they did finally emerge from the mist, they had been trimmed down, thinned out and cut to size.” After two days of bright sun, the clouds have come in today (Monday), and I am thinking about the hugeness of the California sky and how every place has such a different sky, which defines the national pallet. I always thought the clouds in Botticelli’s paintings seemed too cartoonish and unreal in their fluffiness until I traveled in Italy.
Holland is flat. Taking the train from Schiphol, you will notice this flatness of the land, as you will in Nebraska or Iowa. “In the Netherlands, Dirceu [Borges] observed a kind of ‘flatness’, a tendency to mistrust the unconventional, a fear of surprises. There was no place for adventures.” Along with the low sky and the flatness of the land, water has a special place in Dutch consciousness. Jen took me to a water research center that has three glass tubes, about a foot in diameter each, one that shows the current water level in Amsterdam, one that shows the water level during the 1956 flood, and another one I can’t remember. In the Xenophobe’s Guide to the Dutch, a funny little handbook that Jen loaned me, they point out many Dutch phrases that point to this connection to controlling water, keeping it in, keeping it from overflowing beyond its boundaries, as a way of looking at life. This is seen in creating phrases: “They describe excess in terms of overload, a ‘flooding over’ – as if the waters had burst the dykes. In the Netherlands, extravagant people don’t waste money, they ‘spill’ it.”
Arriving at Schiphol Airport on Thursday morning at around nine, Jen met me with a big smile and a little Dutch flag, and we took the metro through city center to the Oud Ouest district, checked in at Jen’s friends’ Megan and Shayna’s. After meeting Megan and Shayna and having some coffee we walked around for a bit, met her friends Theo and Amy, and then brought a picnic to Vondelpark, a gorgeous leafy green park with a circular canal and little ponds with geese, swans, ducks, a stork. It was nice to lie on the grass and sleep for about an hour since I pretty much didn’t sleep on the plane at all. The weather is absolutely gorgeous, a bit warmer than San Francisco in June as they get their warmest period this early in the summer. We had a beer on the outdoor deck of the Blue Tea House, a round white, two story café in the park where people sit and drink White Beer and coffee.
We stayed Thursday night at Megan and Shayna’s and then checked into a studio apartment closer to city center that we are subletting for the rest of the stay. It’s a small but really attractive and comfortable place on a small canal with a nice little terrace off of the kitchen. We wandered the canal-lined streets and allies, through a corner of the red light district, the Nieuwmarkt past the De Waag, and ended up at the Friday night at the Van Gogh Museum, where a band was playing inn the lobby and saw the incredible permanent collection that included works by Odilon Redon, Henri Fantin, Maurice Denis, Manet, Monet, Cézanne and Pissarro. Among the Van Gogh paintings that I loved were “The Yellow House,” “Two Women in the Moon,” “The Hut, Peasants’ Church Yard,” “The Sowers,” and “’The Sunflower.” We had a beautiful dinner of duck salad, scallops and turbot on the sidewalk wine bar called, well, The Wijn Bar.
http://www.vangoghmuseum.nl/vgm/index.jsp
On Saturday, we met Jen’s friend Jan and visited the huge new public library. While they were catching up at the museum café, I walked to the maritime museum, which was unfortunately closed for renovations. In the evening, we visited English Bookshop and had wine at a bar on a canal with some members of Jen’s poetry group, Kate, Abra, Robin, Charlie. We then went to dinner at a spectacular Italian restaurant with Jules and Rini. On Sunday, we slept in and had a lazy day, which was really nice after so much socializing. It was a bit cloudy and cool, and we went out shopping and cooked a chicken with potatoes at our apartment with Angelique and Misha, who live in Utrecht.
On Monday we met Theo at the Rijksmuseum and wandered through the permanent collection, which features Rembrandt’s “Night Watch,” a large painting that portrays a militia company setting out on a search. While other paintings have featured militia companies, like Bartolomous Van Der Helst’s “Banquet of the Celebration,” which we had seen earlier, this was the first that portrayed one in action, setting out on a search, the captain’s hand emanating authoritatively out of the work’s center, and an angelic little blonde girl, the company’s mascot, illuminated among the bearded men austerely loading their rifles. The Rijksmuseum likes to bring in contemporary works that use “Night Watch” as a point of departure, and they contacted the contemporary German painter Anselm Keefer to create a work that was the opposite of the piece. The result is a three-dimensional triptych set in tall glass cases, the outer two with upside-down dangling sunflowers with long stalks, ten feet long perhaps, and covered in some sort of a metallic paint pr stain, and dangling above a floor that resembled the cracked surface of the moon like disembodied tentacles fixed in a frozen state of decay. In the middle cases a rusty and worn folding chair hangs hauntingly in violet moonlight.
http://www.rijksmuseum.nl/
Theo pointed out two of his favorite paintings, which in his mind should be juxtaposed, both portraying Johan de Witt, a statesman who defended Netherlands from invaders, first as a gigantic swan beating its magnificent wings triumphantly over the nation in Jan Asselijit’s “The Threatened Swan,’ and then as a corpse hanging unceremoniously along side that of his brother in Jan da Baen’s “Bodies of the De Witt Brothers.” Adrien Pietersz Van de Venne’s “Fishing For Souls” juxtaposes the Catholic north of Holland on the left with Prince Maurice, Wilhelm of Orange’s brother, and the Protestant south on the right with Archduke Albert and Isabella, with a huge river separating them in which priests and reverends in boats fish for the souls. In the 16th century, following the 80-Years-War with Belgium, the paintings became smaller and focused for the first time on the simple beauty of the Dutch land. This was around the time that the Protestants were destroying the artwork in churches that became symbols of the blasphemous excess of the Golden Age. I also liked Hans Bollinger’s tulips, Johannos Torrentius, Hendrin Auercamp, Gerald Pos’ nocturnal paintings, and Johannes Vermeer’s famous “The Kitchen Maid,” as well as his “View of Houses in Delft.”
In the afternoon we popped into Wynand Fockink, an old schnapps and jenever (Dutch gin) bar, in a small alley behind Dan Square, and had some fois gras and duck rillet at Wine and Bubbles.
http://www.wynand-fockink.nl/index.php?page=proeflokaal&hl=eng
On Tuesday, I took the train to The Hague. The metro workers were striking in Amsterdam, so I walked across town to the central Station and took a train for 45minutes to The Hague (Den Haag). Not arriving at central station, I walked through the Chinese neighborhood, and soon arrived in the parliament buildings reflected on the still Hofvijer. It’s interesting to think that Ratko Mladic was transported here last week to face charges of genocide including charges for the massacres he organized in Srebrenica. I visited The Hague Historic Museum and the Mauritshuis, an ornate museum of Dutch masters that features Vermeer’s “The Girl With The Pearl Earing.” That night we had dinner at Smart Space, a cool art warehouse space, with Jen’s friend Laureen. On Wednesday we ran errands, starting the day off at a herring stand, one of many celebrating the first day of herring season with people lining up to eat raw haring with chopped raw onions.
On Thursday, I visited Anne Frank’s house, , which we had walked by a couple of times. There it is, just like we’ve read about, right in the middle of town, in the shadow of the Westerkerk, its little steeple rising up among the narrow Dutch buildings. The exhibit startes on the ground floor of the building and makes its way up four or five floors in which photographs, documents, and memorobelia of the Frank family are displayed. Along the way you are guided by bits of narration from the diary on the wall, and every few rooms, there is a short video. By the timne you reach the apartment, you have a sense of the distance between the street and their clandestine flat, and you enter the way they did, from behind a bookcase that swings open and up a steep set of wooden stairs. To stand in Anne Frank’s room, see the clippings from magazines, mostly pictures of women from fashion magazines scattered around with an ocasional bearded philosopher, peer through her window, touch the walls, and see the attick, her secret refuge, propells one back to the moment in which they lived, the quotidian simplicity of it, and the humanity. There has been an argument brewing over the death and removal of the famous tree that Anne Frank lookd at and hoped.
http://www.annefrank.org/
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/06/09/world/europe/09tree.html?_r=1&hp
On our last night in town, after congregating with Theo at our apartment, we had an exquisite dinner at Blauw aan de Waal [Blue on the Wall], an absolutely gorgeous restaurant surprisingly located down a seedy alleyway in the Red Light District, in with Jules and Patricia.
http://www.mycitymate.com/in/nl-amsterdam/1502-Blauw_aan_de_Waal
















